Alpha-Hydroxy Acids - Special Cosmetic Agents

September 15th, 2008

Alpha-Hydroxy acids (AHA’s) are a type of biological chemical compounds that consist of a carboxylic acid changed with a hydroxy radical on the adjacent carbon. These acids may be either biologically expressed or synthetic. AHAs are well-known for their role in the cosmetics industry, as they work as common moisturizing agents by absorbing moisture from the air, hence when applied topically they help enhance humidity content and plasticity of the stratum corneum. They also promote cell desquamation by reducing corneocyte adhesion/cohesion and speed up cell renewal within the basal layer by induction of epidermolysis, conducing to the production of new collagen. This explains their use as exfolients and skin smoothing elements.

They are often found in solutions claiming to reduce wrinkles or the signs of aging, and improve the overall look and feel of the skin. They are also applied as chemical peels available in a dermatologist’s office, beauty and health spas and home solutions, which commonly contain a lower concentration. Their effectiveness is documented.

AHAs - Helpful or Harmful Skin Repair?

AHAs are usually safe when applied on the skin as a cosmetic agent using the adequate dosage. The most common side-consequences are soft skin irritation, redness and flaking. The severity commonly depends on the pH and the used proportion of the acid. Chemical peels use to produce more severe side-effects including blistering, burning and skin discoloration, but they are commonly mild and disappear a day or two after treatment. The danger is when, through high proportions, low pH and excessive exposure times, more than the devitalized skin layers are removed, exposing immature skin cells, blood, nerve or lymphatic systems to damaging effects of the environment.

The FDA has also advised consumers that care should be taken when using AHAs after an industry-sponsored study found that they can increase photo-sensitivity to the sun.

Glycolic acid is the most widely employed of a type of chemicals substances known as B1-Hydroxy acids (AHA’s) that consist of a carboxylic acid changed with a hydroxy group on the adjacent carbon. Glycolic acid is commonly made from sugar cane. It is fairly well known and considered the most efficient of the AHAs for cosmetic purposes. Glycolic acid accelerates the dermal remodeling process resulting in a smoother texture and healthier look.

Lactic acid, taken primarily from milk is considered to be softer and less irritating than glycolic acid, and is therefore considered ideal for those with delicate skin such as people affected by dry skin ailments.

AHAs are known compounds used in many cosmetic products and procedures. AHAs are usually safe, but that depends on the applied doses. To cure any kind of skin ailment, it is advisable to find a biological skin care product that promotes dermal repair and relief.

Prevent the complications of aging and several skin conditions using a new skin moisturizing treatment elaborated only with biological ingredients.

- Claudia Truffello

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